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Anti-ageing basics
LONG-TERM CARE ยท ~7 MIN READ
Updated: May 2026
Most of skin ageing doesn't come from age itself โ it comes from sun, lack of sleep, and a damaged skin barrier. Three things you can influence. Here's the honest guide.
โ ๏ธ Note: This article is for general information purposes only and does not replace professional medical or dermatological advice. If you have skin problems, allergies, or intolerances, please consult a doctor.
What does "skin ageing" actually mean?
Dermatologists distinguish two types:
- Intrinsic (biological) ageing: genetically determined, about 20 % of visible ageing. Not much to do here โ you inherit the pace.
- Extrinsic (environmental) ageing: from UV radiation, pollution, smoking, lack of sleep, stress, poor diet. About 80 % of visible ageing. This is where you can make a huge difference.
The good news: the measures against extrinsic ageing are cheap, simple, and don't need any โฌ200 creams.
Pillar 1: Sun protection
Sun protection is by far the most effective anti-ageing measure. Every dermatologist will confirm this. A 2013 study (Hughes et al., Annals of Internal Medicine) showed: daily sunscreen reduces visible skin ageing over 4.5 years by 24 % compared to irregular use.
In plain terms: if you only do one thing, then SPF 30+ every day. It's the cheapest, most effective anti-ageing measure that exists. A good day cream with SPF costs โฌ15โ25 and lasts 2 months.
More on this in our article Sunscreen in everyday life.
Pillar 2: Retinoids
Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) are the most effective anti-ageing tool after sun protection. They:
- boost collagen production
- smooth fine lines
- improve skin texture
- visibly reduce pores
- help with pigment spots
They come in various strengths:
Weak โ Strong
- Retinyl palmitate / retinyl acetate: very mild, good for beginners with sensitive skin. Found in many drugstore creams.
- Retinol: the classic. Concentrations of 0.1 % to 1 %. Over-the-counter.
- Retinaldehyde: stronger than retinol, less irritation. Mid-range price.
- Adapalene / tretinoin: the "pro league". Adapalene is over-the-counter (Differin Gel), tretinoin needs a prescription. Strongest effect, biggest initial irritation.
๐ก Beginner's rule: start low (0.1 % retinol), 2ร per week in the evening, slowly ramp up. If it starts to peel โ take a break, then use less often.
Pillar 3: Antioxidants
Free radicals from UV radiation and pollution damage skin cells. Antioxidants neutralise them. The most effective ones in skincare are:
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): the gold standard. Concentrations of 10โ20 %. In the morning under sunscreen โ then it even boosts its protective effect.
- Vitamin E (tocopherol): works particularly well together with vitamin C โ many serums combine both.
- Ferulic acid: stabilises vitamin C and makes the combination even more effective (e.g. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic โ very expensive, but the original).
- Resveratrol, green tea extract, polyphenols: milder antioxidants, often in creams as a mix.
At what age?
The simple answer: Sunscreen: from now on. Retinoids: from your mid-20s.
Sun protection never hurts and prevents best โ the earlier the better. Even children are recommended SPF.
You can introduce retinoids slowly from your mid-20s, if the first fine lines bother you or as prevention. Before 18 it doesn't make sense, except for acne (different use case).
Antioxidants like vitamin C: sensible from your mid-20s, but doesn't hurt earlier either.
What about anti-ageing creams "from 14" or "from 19": pure marketing. Save the money.
Other things that help
- Sleep: 7โ8 hours. While you sleep, your skin repairs itself the most intensively.
- Don't smoke: After UV radiation, smoking is the second biggest factor for skin ageing.
- Drink water: Not magical, but dehydrated skin looks duller and more wrinkled.
- Diet: Colourful vegetables, berries, nuts, olive oil, fish โ all full of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids.
- Exercise: Blood circulation, hormones, stress reduction โ all positive.
If you combine lifestyle + sunscreen + retinol + antioxidant, you have the best anti-ageing programme money can buy. Regardless of what advertising tries to tell you.